Stained Glass Turkey Football Panel Free Project Guide
- Free Stained Glass Project Guide
- Create a cute Thanksgiving stained glass panel to show off year after year.
Studio Pro™ Stained Glass #932332 Grass Green/Cream
Studio Pro™ Stained Glass #91312 Brown/Green/Gray
Studio Pro™ Stained Glass #93192 Honey Wisp
Studio Pro™ Stained Glass #910862 Peaches/Cream
Studio Pro™ Stained Glass #93692 Red/Green/White
Studio Pro™ Stained Glass #964122 Ruby Cathedral
Studio Pro™ ¼” Black Lined Copper Foil
Tinned Jump Rings
Wire 20 gauge silver 16”
Flux or Paint Brush (to apply flux)
Studio Pro™ Soldering Iron
Studio Pro™ Safety Glasses
Metal Push Pins
Studio Pro™ Liquid Safety Flux
Studio Pro™ Glass Cutter
Power Max™ Grinder or Scythe Stone
Studio Pro™ Fid or a pencil or popsicle stick can be substituted
Exacto™ or craft knife
Studio Pro™ Foil Shears (optional)
Studio Pro™ Heat Resistant Work Surface
60/40 Vinegar/Water Solution, Soft Cloth, Fan, Liquid Soap
Before you begin, find a place to work that has great ventilation where you can open a window and use a fan. An area safe from children and pets is recommended. The less you move an unfinished project, the less likely you are to have damage.
1. Make 2 copies of your pattern. Cut one out with foil shears or cut out along the inside edges of the pattern lines with regular scissors. Mark each pattern piece with one simple arrow indicating direction you want the glass grain to run. Glass direction/grain will either be in the form of the color or texture, if used correctly it will enhance your panel.
2. Layout your pattern pieces on glass, trace around them using a permanent marker. Note: If using the textured side of the glass in your design, turn pattern piece over and trace, cut on the smooth side of the glass. When scoring glass, cut on the inside of the drawn line.
3. Clean each piece of glass thoroughly with vinegar solution and a clean cloth. Foil will not stick properly if your glass is dirty or oily. Use a marker, number each piece of glass to correspond with the numbers on the uncut pattern.
4. Using a glass cutter, cut out your pieces. You can use a grinder or a scythe stone to shape and remove sharp sections from your pieces.
5. The foil is what makes the solder adhere to the glass. Start with ¼” (1.5ml thick) copper foil. Peel back 3”- 4” of backing from the foil. Center the edge of your glass piece on the sticky side of the foil. Always “start” your foil on the inside edge of the glass where it will touch the next piece and be out of sight once it is soldered. Wrap the entire outer edges of the glass with foil and overlap the ends ¼”.
6. Use a fid (if you don’t have a fid, a pencil or popsicle stick can be substituted) and burnish (rub) the surface of the foil to the edge of the glass. Press firmly, however too much pressure may cause the foil to tear.
7. Gently push down the foil on the corners and sides of the glass. DON’T slide your fingers along the foil, it can cut you. Burnish down the foil to the glass. Your foil must be secured to your glass completely and smoothly to make the solder effectively hold to your glass pieces.
8. Use an Exacto™ knife (or sharp blade of any kind) to trim any excess foil, creating a uniform edge along the face of the glass. Use a fire resistant surface on which to solder, a Homasote board works well and can be purchased at your local building supply store.
9. Plug in your soldering iron.
WARNING: No drinking, eating or smoking while handling lead solder! Pregnant or nursing woman should avoid all lead solder. Open window and turn on fan when soldering.
10. Using the second copy of your pattern for reference, arrange foil wrapped glass pieces on your work surface. Place METAL push pins around the perimeter of your project. This will hold your pieces in place while you solder. Tack your joints together with a bit of flux and a small dot of solder, where pieces touch. This will hold your projects shape while you run your solder lines. Remove push pins.
11. Apply a small amount of flux with a brush to your foiled seams. Apply only to areas you will be able to work in 10 minutes. Solder will not properly adhere to glass without foil and flux.
12. Unwind about 9 inches of solder from the spool; do not cut.
13. Place the hot soldering iron tip on the seam you want to solder. Use the narrow edge as opposed to the flat edge, as this helps to raise the solder bead. Now that the tip is on the foil, place the solder from the spool about ½” up from the end of the tip. Gently push the solder into the tip, as you move the tip along the seam. Let up on the amount of solder when you come to the end of the seam. Now wipe your tip and put the iron back into the iron stand.
14. Do not leave the soldering iron in one place too long; this can crack the glass or the solder can “melt through”. This means the solder will liquefy and fall through the foil seam between the glass pieces.
15. Solder the front, back and sides of your project, wherever foil is exposed. Then do a final solder bead. This skill you will acquire over time. All seams and outer areas should have a raised bead.
16. If you are unable complete your project, remember to clean it with your cloth and vinegar solution, than put plastic wrap over the project. This will keep the foil from “aging” and that makes for easier soldering when you are ready.
17. Turn your project over. Solder a jump ring at the upper seams of the green frame
18. When the soldering is complete, let cool completely. Spray a cloth with your vinegar solution and wipe the flux off the project. Clean your finished project with liquid soap and water, rinse thoroughly and dry.
19. Complete your turkey with coiled Fun Wire for feet. Spiral the wire for the faceguard on one end form the remainder into a “U”. Attach the faceguard and feet with E6000, and let dry.